Machine Embroidery Tips!

• General Rule In Case Of Any Problem
• Top Thread Breaking
• Bobbin Thread Breaking
• Needle Breaks
• Stitches of Design "Sinking" Into The Fabric
• Stitches Looping Under The Fabric
• Bobbin Thread Shows On Front Side Of Fabric
• Top Thread Shows A Lot On Bottom
• Skipped Stitches
• Fabric Puckering
• Design Parts "Run Away" from Each Other (design not lining up, outlines off)
• Machine Makes Strange Sounds
• Machine Glitches

General Rule In Case Of Any Problem

1. Make sure that your machine's embroidery arm can move to all directions, and nothing is disturbing it.
   
2. Re-thread both top & bobbin thread.

Top Thread Breaking

1. Try to re-thread your machine. While re-threading, make sure you hold the thread very tight and it doesn't have the slightest chance to loop anywhere. Then, BEFORE you start stitching:
   
   1. Make sure that your thread cone doesn't slide off the spool pin if the holder is horizontal. In case it has tendency to slide off - secure it using spool holders (little plastic caps) that come with your machine.
   2. Make sure that the thread ABSOLUTELY CAN'T wrap or catch around thread holder. If your thread will wrap around it at some point - it will DEFINITELY break.
2. Make sure that the thread doesn't catch on the spool edge. This problem always pops up when using small "mushroom" type thread spools (the 275-yard ones usually). What happens is that after unwinding normally for a little while, the "mushroom" edge starts preventing the thread from unwinding well any further. Naturally, the thread breaks. That's why so many embroiderers HATE small spools. And for a good reason.
   
   There are 2 optional solutions to this problem:
   1. Avoid using small "mushroom" type spools. Whenever you can, purchase the good size, economical 1100-yard cones. They never have these annoying "mushroom" edges.
   2. If you already have some small spools and are determined to use them - try using vertical spool pin, and loosen top thread tension a little. You may also use separate vertical thread stand, if you have one. It may help your thread to feed up well, and avoid it's friction with plastic spool edge.
   In case your machine doesn't have a vertical spool pin and you don't own thread stand either - consider getting a kit with normal thread cones. Because these stands cost $50 - $100, and for this money you may get a lot of really good thread cones.
3. Be sure your needle is appropriate for machine embroidery. For regular 40wt rayon and poly thread 80/12 needles usually work great. Yet, if you're using metallic or thick cotton - try using metallic needles. They have larger eyes, often coated with Teflon, to help thick thread move smoother.
4. Take thread end into your hands. Unwind a couple of meters and feel the thread between your fingers. It should be smooth, even and without knots. If it's not the case - try to unwind several more meters. It may be damaged only in a certain place on spool. If it's still inferior after you unwind several good meters - put that spool aside and take another one.
5. If none of the above helps, and you're SURE that the thread isn't catching anywhere - try to lower top thread tension. Your machine's manual will show you how.

Bobbin Thread Breaking

1. Take the bobbin out. Clean bobbin case. Insert the bobbin again and re-thread.
2. If re-threading doesn't help - try to take a new bobbin.

Tip:
Must say that our suffering with bobbin thread breakage ended happily the moment we started using pre-wound bobbins. Apparently, factory made bobbins are winded much better than home made ones.

At least this is correct for several popular machines like Husqvarna Designer series & Brother ULTs. We suspect that this should be similar with other machines, too.

Anyway, we've come to conclusion that it's better, cheaper and a lot more pleasant to use quality pre-wounds than to wind bobbins. We're huge fans of plastic sided bobbins, and sideless also work very well.

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